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Tindari: The Black Madonna Santa Maria of Tindari In her sanctuary in the small city of
Tindari, municipality of Patti, province of Messina, on the North-Eastern
shore of Sicily, painted cedar wood. |
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The breath-taking sanctuary of this Madonna sits on a high bluff overlooking the sea. It was built on the site of a former temple to Cybele, a goddess who was worshipped in those parts since prehistoric times under the titles Mother of the Gods, the Accessible One, Savior who Hears our Prayers. The Roman amphitheatre and other ruins can still be visited. One story says the brown Madonna was brought to Italy in the 8th century by sailors who had saved her from the iconoclastic controversy in Eastern Christian countries. When they drew near to Tindari a storm forced them to take refuge in its bay. Once the winds calmed, the sailors wanted to continue on their way, but the Madonna wouldn't allow the boat to move until her stewards entrusted her to a little monastery on the cliffs. It seems she wanted to fill Cybele's throne. Another story reports Saint Mary of Tindari was found by shepherds in a beach front cave, where she had washed ashore in a casket after a long and tumultuous journey. As if to explain and confirm her dark complexion, a note was with her, quoting the same verse from the Song of Songs (1:5) that accompanies so many Dark Madonnas: "I am black but beautiful, O you daughters of Jerusalem." Now the first half of that quote is inscribed in big Latin letters at the base of the statue. This is significant at a time like ours when so many Black Madonnas are restored to their original whiteness because it is perceived as more beautiful - like an old woman getting a face lift. But the Madonna doesn't need a face lift, doesn't need the patina removed. When she has darkened, it is for many good reasons. "I am black but beautiful." says: "Don't mess with my skin color!" The inscription also draws attention to the color. Many people don't even register dark statues as "black" because they are used to the natural darkness of old wooden objects and ancient icons (patina). They look through the statue as through a window into the divine that is beyond shape and color. This is wonderful indeed, but sometimes the statue is also a letter: the details of the work bear a message to humanity. "Nigra sum sed formosa" also says: "Pay attention to my blackness! Meditate on it!" An interesting story is told at the Tindari sanctuary that warns people of prejudiced reactions to dark skin: One day a woman came from far away to fulfill a vow to the Madonna of Tindari for saving her little girl's life. When the woman reached the sanctuary, after a long journey and saw that the Madonna's face was that of a black "Ethiopian" she exclaimed in dismay: "I traveled so far to see someone uglier than me?!" The moment she expressed her irreverence, her little girl, who had wandered away from her mother, fell from a cliff. The woman called upon the Madonna to again save her child's life. But the miracle had already happened - a sand bank had risen from the sea so the girl could fall on soft sand and live. The woman now believed in the divine powers of the Madonna she had mocked. The sandbank, which stretches 1.5 km into the sea and rises to 4m above sea level is still there today. Some say it is in the shape of the Madonna and always reminds us not to disrespect any form of the Mother of God.(*1) Like others, this sanctuary too honors its Madonna with a festival on her birthday, September 8th. Masses are celebrated every hour from early morning to midnight, a procession is held, and fireworks conclude the festivities at midnight. A freely interpreted "copy" of this Black Madonna is venerated in a small Italian immigrant chapel on Fifth Street in Hoboken, New Jersey. Twice a year mass is celebrated there and every five years, on the weekend closest to September 8th, Our Lady is carried through the streets of the city in procession. Though Ean Begg counts the Black Madonna of Tindari among one of those attributed to St. Luke, no one else confirms this view. *1: See: Mary Beth Moser, Honoring Darkness: Exploring the Power of Black Madonnas in Italy, Dea Madre Publishing, Vashon Island, WA: 2005, pp.70 + 73 and Joseph Sciorra, The Black Madonna of East Thirteenth Street, in: Voices: The Journal of New York Folklore, Vol. 30, spring-summer 2004 |
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